What is in a name? Parents labor over what to call their babe when they are expecting, knowing that often someone’s name shapes who they are. Car companies pick specific names for their automobiles to give them a manly spin or a family-esque flair. And restaurants, eager to lure hungry customers, have the moral obligation to select a catchy or kitschy name, tempting customers before they even walk in the door. The problem comes when a restaurant disguises itself beneath a name either too big or too misleading for its food.
The word “salt” makes me think of many things - you are the salt of the earth, hold the salt, shake your salt shaker and that violent Angelina Jolie “I’m-hot-but-I-can-kill-you” film – none of which I am overly fond of. I associate salt with bland, tasteless food desperately needing something to kick up the flavor. I almost never add salt on top of anything unless I am cooking with it. Nothing about salt particularly amuses or excites me; that is, until I went to Salt.
In a corner row home-turned-bistro, Salt stands as an unassuming eatery with bright green, neon lights hovering over the bar. Despite the Leprechaun-green color exuding from the fixtures, the restaurant is pleasantly charming and intimate. Salt puts a spin on American fare, infusing it with Asian and French accents. To begin, the three-cheese, cheese board with slivers of pear, crispy, candied brioche wafers and a fruity, homemade jam is a delicate, yet hardy start. The young manchego, the strong blue and the smooth goat make a pungent threesome. The duck ragout with potato gnocci and the rock shrimp ceviche sounded like superb starters but save your appetite for the main courses.
The seared tuna with seaweed salad was light and fresh. Because it was served with deep-fried, spicy pot stickers, the meal was just heavy enough and filling. It’s even better with a chilled glass of oaky Chardonnay. The lamb was okay, but not memorable. It was served with string beans and a reduction. All portion sizes were generous, but nothing was left to take home.
So what is in a name? Salt is anything but tasteless and none of the food needs extra spice. No need to hold the salt at all – in fact, holding out would mean denying yourself.
Salt
2127 E. Pratt Street
Baltimore, Maryland
Looks delicious! Nice blog!
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