King of all markets: La Boqueria

From January to April of 2009, I spent my way eating through Europe. Though I was based in Barcelona to study and perfect my Spanish, I was at the crux of rich, flavorful Mediterranean fare and a hub for quick, relatively cheap plane rides to the rest of Europe’s delicious offerings.

In Barcelona, I savored homemade Catalonian cuisine and spent my days gallivanting around the city in search of Mom-and-Pop cafés, fancy dinner-date locales, after-hour eateries, picnic-worthy marketplaces and open-air markets. While nearly every place I ate in conjured up thoughts of a long-lost American counterpart, I could not imagine anything even remotely comparable to Barcelona’s most famous food market, La Boqueria off of La Rambla (arguably the most famous street in all of Barcelona).

In the United States, we have traveling and stationery markets, bazaars and the occasional festival. NYC has its weekly farmer’s market in Union Square; LA has its farmer's market. But all too often, American open-air food fairs are cluttered with crafts and flowers. While these artsy goods are beautiful to say the least, they outshine or take away from the food itself.

At La Boqueria, this is not the case. The food is an art form. It’s inspirational. From the cold fruit juice and rich candy to the picture-perfect fruit displays and meat still on the bone, La Boqueria is, by far, the most awe-inspiring market I have ever been to. The colors, the smells, the touches, the sounds and the tastes entice all five senses. The vendors, who set up and tear down every single day, take pride in the presentation of their stands – for if they didn’t, the competition from the other vendors would surely steal their business. Though many local Catalonians make daily trips to the market to purchase the freshest ingredients for their meals, even those who hate to cook or don’t have access to a kitchen will enjoy walking around.  

The market is divided into sections. The fruit and vegetable vendors are all close together, just as the meat sellers, the fish and seafood personnel and the cheese specialists are. Some give samples in order to snag their customers. Some chant to attract tourists. But everyone yells orders across the way. The liveliness is contagious.

In addition to the sellers’ stands, there are also a few walk-up restaurants that prepare paella, Spanish tortilla, bread with tomato and fried seafood using only the fresh ingredients from the vendors at the market. On any given day, locals take a seat at the bar, eat lunch and return to work. Of course, the places with the longest lines are considered the favorites, and typically they have the best food. The prices tend to be a bit steep (about 17 Euros a person), but the ingredients and fish are fresh and filling.    

There are only a few downsides to La Boqueria. It opens early (by Barcelona standards, anyway) at 8 a.m., and it closes by 3 p.m. Most of the vendors only take cash, and they prefer for you to speak in Spanish or Catalan (don’t let them fool you though, nearly everyone can speak English). Lastly, the fish and meat sections of the market can be a bit unappetizing if you lack a strong stomach, but at least you can be sure it’s all fresh.  

After spending time perusing the market, you can cruise La Rambla (the famous street), which hosts a variety of floral vendors, street performers and artists on its center walkway. I can certainly attest to the fact that there’s nothing as good as walking along La Rambla on a sunny day while enjoying some fruit from La Boqueria. It’s an experience you don’t want to miss.    

KP’s Crumbs: If you are ever in Barcelona, La Boqueria is a must. But be sure to get there before 3 p.m. or else the gate will be closed and you’ll miss all of the action and great food. Sip on an icy mango juice for 2 Euros and pick up a container of assorted fresh fruit to taste how sweet all fruit should taste.

My end of the date rate the plate: Worthy of multiple forkings and lots of spooning. You may even find yourself craving more.