A circus of an event: a second go at Mustard Seed

[Come one, come all. Ladies and gentlemen and children of all ages, Mustard Seed Bistro, if you will.]

Despite my previous bashing of Mustard Seed Bistro, I wasn’t ready to give it up just yet. Its quaint nature still lingering on my mind from my first attempt to dine there was calling to me like the faint memory of a red-and-white big top in the distance. Plus, because it received rave reviews in the Sun-Sentinel, I had to experience the spectacle myself by sinking in my teeth.

I felt like a kid going to see the circus for the first time. I awoke eagerly yesterday morning, knowing that my mom and I were meeting up at Mustard Seed Bistro in Cooper City for lunch. Wanting to beat the inevitable crowd and since we didn’t reserve our seats ahead of time, we arrived at 11:30 a.m. A hearty “hello” from one of the waiters across the restaurant welcomed us, and we seated ourselves at a table for two.

A handsome waiter with a flashy white smile, who looked like a model or entrancing trapeze artist rather than a server, presented us with our playbills – one-sided paper menus. My mom and I decided on two baguette sandwiches: one with grilled chicken, baked Brie, sliced apples and honey mustard; the other with Waldorf chicken salad that our waiter suggested. And we eagerly waited for the show to begin.

As with any good performance, each vignette – in this case, the food – was better than the previous. The warm grilled chicken breast melted the Brie cheese and the apples, making the crunch from the fresh baguette meet a gooey center (not such an easy feat!). The Waldorf chicken salad, with shredded chicken, dried cranberries and pina colada mix, was truly the showstopper and worthy of a round-of-applause. The simple, yet elegant presentation on white, square plates added to the “wow” effect that’s restaurants rarely achieve.

But while the main ring of the three-ring circus gets all the hype, I’m quite attune to the other two, knowing full-well that more often than not, it’s the supporting events that completes the show. While my mom and I could have paid an extra $2.50 for pomme frittes or a salad, we opted not to. Our side dishes instead were surprises, chosen by the ringmaster himself, the chef. Just enough nutmeggy couscous for a taste and a small heaping of chilled and chunked sweet potato salad rounded out our plates.

When our shoulda-been-model of a waiter returned, I questioned him about the ingredients of the delicious couscous and sweet potato medley. He ever so gracefully avoided a plunge into the pit of secrets as he informed me that he had no idea, since the chef has about six sides that he serves with lunch. When I asked how the chef chooses which sides to serve, he simply said that the chef just picks whatever he feels like.

At first, I wasn’t sure how to feel about this. Shouldn’t I, the patron, dictate the show? I’m the one paying, right? But after careful thought, I came to realize that this is how it should be. Why wouldn’t the ringmaster, much more skilled in his own art, be the one to run his own show?

Our waiter, the great performer that he was, also artfully dodged my human canon of other questions. “Can I see a dinner menu” led to a response that they were just cut up into squares. (“Huh?,” I found myself thinking.) Turns out, that once a week the chef prepares a new dinner menu and the old menus are disposed of. Why they would have to be literally cut up? Well to that I have no idea.

Adding to the restaurant menagerie was young woman painting the back wall during eating hours. She reminded me of a dismembered woman. I didn’t know whether to “oooo” and “ahhhh,” or be disgusted that she had paint open while I was eating. On top of her strange presence during lunch hour, I couldn’t fathom why on earth she was painting a circus scene of all things as the focal point of the restaurant. In such a classic bistro, painted in light yellow hues and with lace covering the windows, bright elephants seemed out of place. Nonetheless, the artwork captivated me and watching the artist paint provided entertainment in addition to the plated food.

The other circus guests were quite the sight as well. Businessmen in three-piece suits sat diagonal from sweaty women in yoga cloths (they even brought in their yoga mats! Gross.). These oddballs sat next to fathers with daughters, who sat by snobby women dressed to impress on their lunch date with the girls. By the time my mom had paid the check, people were anxiously awaiting our seats.

Our lunch affair proved to be a circus of an adventure. Delicious? Of course. Confusing? Yep, that too. Completely exciting? Absolutely. It was an all-around feast for the senses that left me longing to runaway to the circus, but only if it tastes as good as Mustard Seed Bistro.

KP's Crumbs: Mustard Seed Bistro also offers breakfast. While I didn't see the breakfast menu, I am sure that the chef must whip together scrumptious dishes. As for dinner, if you plan on going, make a reservation and dress up. The lunch crowd and the dinner crowd are birds of a different color.

My end of the date rate the plate: This bistro is a forking and spooning pleasure. The mystery side dishes keep you on edge, wanting to know which the chef will chose for you to experience. Just go with them, expect the unexpected and you'll be sure to enjoy yourself.

Mustard Seed Bistro

8616 Griffin Road, Cooper City, Florida 954.252.0002