MexiCAN

With last-minute reservations to Pazo nearly impossible and Peter’s Inn swamped, some visiting friends and I trekked off the beaten path to the dramatically stark, concrete space in the Silo Condominium building, Miguel’s Cocina y Cantina. The space is bumping, the portion size just right and the in-house tortilla chips thick and flakey. Miguel’s Dia de los Muertos, skeleton-inspired décor lends itself nicely to the hip ambiance exuding delicious energy. The juxtaposition of the deeply colorful interior with the contemporary steel structure of the restaurant is just what this cantina represents – old Mexican dishes with a modern flare on flavor.

The open-space restaurant reminds me of the streets of Guadalajara, not Baltimore. The façade of Guadalajara along the inside glances at patrons to create an outside-looking-in feel. The bar, abuzz with happily drunken tequila lovers, served margaritas, tequila shots and other agave favorites, in addition to virginal Jarritos.

The food, just like the gig itself, is an authentic celebration of Mexican culture. Tacos are soft, not hard. There is not a “make-your-own-burrito” option. And don’t even try to ask for a chicken burrito without the spice. Take it or leave it. Hating food too spicy, I munched on beautifully plated, crunchy oveja flautas, filled with shredded lamb, crushed almonds and dried cranberries, giving the otherwise hot lamb a sweet kick. The squash blossom flower quesadilla with grilled zucchini and jack cheese wasn’t huge, but tasty nonetheless. And the pollo huitlacoche, too spicy for me to try, floated atop arroz verde, red chard and mole. It didn’t stand a chance and was devoured quickly. The spicy, green tomatilla salsa and the homemade, smoky mole were a hit with my party. The basket of deep-fried chips and sauces were gone within minutes.

Just like in Mexico, don’t expect anyone, or anything for that matter, to be speedy. The wait staff comes and goes as they please, eventually remembering to fill your glass or bring your food (they did, however, forgot our guac). Even without the chunky avocado, we left sated and satisfied.

If greasy, fast Mexican is what you are looking for, Miguel’s isn’t your place. But if spices – smoky and hot, frozen margaritas and fresh chips are what you are after, Miguel’s can provide your munch…and your hangover.

My end of the date rate the plate: Worth a good forking.

Miguel’s Cocina y Cantina

1200 Steuart Street

Baltimore, MD

443-438-3139